How long do new carpet emissions last?
New carpet's emission level will drop significantly within the first 24 hours of installation, and with fresh air ventilation, the emission level will dissipate to an undetectable level within 48 to 72 hours.

What is the "new carpet" odor that sometimes is present after the installation?
This possible odor usually comes from 4-phenylcyclohexene (4-PC), a by-product of the latex binder used to hold the fibers and backing together. It, like a "new car" odor, will dissipate within a few days and is not harmful.

How do I know which carpet, cushion, or adhesive has been tested for emissions?
Look for and purchase a carpet, cushion, or floor covering adhesive that displays the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Indoor Air Quality Testing label. These three indoor air quality testing programs identify the products that have been tested and meet stringent indoor air quality requirements for very low emissions. The programs cover carpet, carpet cushion, and floor covering installation adhesives.

How do the IAQ testing programs work?
In the testing programs for carpet, separate carpet cushion, and floor covering adhesives for carpet installations, samples are collected from the manufacturer's production process. Each sample is tested individually for chemical emissions by an independent laboratory, using a dynamic, environmental chamber and highly sophisticated, scientific analytical technology. Volatile organic compound emissions are identified and quantified as though the products were in a real building indoor environment. Products that meet the emission criteria are allowed to display the label. Products are retested on an on-going basis to ensure compliance. In each of these programs, the authorized label displayed on the product contains an identification number assigned specifically to the individual manufacturer for each product type that meets the criteria.

Regarding indoor air quality, is there any difference between natural and synthetic fibers?
No. All types of carpet have very low emission levels, regardless of whether they are natural or synthetic fibers.

What can I do to minimize possible exposure to emissions?
Always choose carpet, cushion, and adhesives that display the CRI Indoor Air Quality Testing label. Before carpet is installed, ensure that the installer will follow the installation guidelines (CRI 105) established by the Carpet and Rug Institute. Follow the installation guidelines -- common sense procedures and the guidelines for keeping your home environmentally friendly -- at the end of this brochure.

I have an allergy to natural latex. Will new carpet cause a problem for me?
The backing latex on broadloom carpet is not a natural latex. The latex that bonds carpet fibers and the backing fabrics together is made from a synthetic latex, "SB latex" or styrene butadiene latex. SB latex is a synthetic, water emulsion made from compounds different from those found in natural latex. Latex allergies are the results of protein enzymes in natural latex. SB latex used in carpet does not cause the allergic, dermatological reaction associated with natural latex

Does new carpet contain formaldehyde?
No. Formaldehyde is not used in the carpet manufacturing process in the United States. Sometimes, formaldehyde can be found in old carpet and other home textiles that have absorbed formaldehyde from other environmental sources.

Do stain and soil-resist treatments or dyes used to color my carpet affect IAQ?
Manufacturer applied dyes and stain and soil-resist treatments are included in the finished carpet tested in its entirety in the CRI Testing Program.

Do carpet cleaning products, fresheners and deodorants, and pesticides add emissions?
All household cleaning products and pesticides add emissions. Read the contents of the label on the container. If you have decided to use the product, be sure to vacuum thoroughly after each use to reduce any residue.

Should I be concerned about dust mites in carpet?
No. Most mite allergen is found in bedding and upholstered furniture. Exposure to mite allergen usually occurs while sleeping, sitting, or through direct surface contact with the allergen itself. Dust mite allergen is very large and is not released from carpet into the breathing zone, even during periods of heavy activity. Maintaining humidity levels below 65% and regular vacuuming and cleaning will minimize mite population in your home.

Why has my allergist recommended removing carpet and other textiles from my home?
One of the approaches that allergists use in allergy treatment is allergen avoidance in the belief that the removal of all possible places where allergens are held will reduce allergic symptoms. This is a misconception. Although allergen (dust, pollen, mold spores, etc.) may be present in carpet, carpet is not a source of airborne allergen that produces allergic symptoms.

Will removing my carpet reduce my allergic symptoms?
No. Removing carpet will not reduce the number of airborne allergens that produce allergic reactions; in fact, removal of carpet may actually increase the amount of airborne allergen, because other surfaces do not offer the capability of holding allergen. Removing allergen materials from a carpet is as easy as regular vacuuming and routine cleaning.

Among the factors that may impact the quality of the indoor air in your home is the air drawn from outside. Other factors may be tobacco smoke, radon, and cooking odors, as well as renovating and redecorating products, such as wallpaper, furniture and cabinetry, carpet, paints, varnishes, particle board, wood finishes, caulking, and adhesives. Interior products in the home have the potential to impact the indoor air because they emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air. The quality of indoor air also involves cleaning materials, building materials, ducts transmitting heat and air conditioning, activities in the building, people, pets, and furnishings.

One must look at the whole picture. Cleaning products used in the home, as well as interior furnishings, should be low VOC emitters, with emissions, sometimes improperly called off-gassing, that dissipate quickly. Scientific studies have demonstrated that new carpet is one of the lowest emitters of VOCs into the indoor environment and that these emissions dissipate very quickly. The low-level VOC emissions and the harmless odor from new carpet dissipate within the first 48 to 72 hours after installation. Carpet has not posed any health problems for millions of satisfied customers. Carpet is made primarily of the same innocuous materials found in clothing and other everyday fabrics; i.e., polyester, nylon, and olefin fibers, latex (synthetic rubber), and polypropylene (olefin) fabric backing.

Common Factors That Affect IAQ:
People (exhalation, body odors, diseases)
Activities (work such as cleaning, using correction fluids, carbonless paper, pest control products, and personal activities such as wear fragrances and smoking)
Technology (photocopiers and laser printers)
Furnishings (furniture, draperies, floor coverings)
Finishes (paint, varnish, vinyl wall coverings)
Building materials (caulking compounds, adhesives, wood laminates)
Outdoor air quality

• Concrete - must be properly placed, finished, cured, and free of excessive moisture and alkali.
• Wood - must be structurally sound with adequate underneath ventilation.

Floor Preparation
The concrete must be inspected to determine the special care that might be required to make it a suitable foundation for carpet. All cracks, holes, joints, and protrusions must be adequately addressed to ensure a smooth, finished appearance and prevent accelerated wear.

Concrete must be cured, clean, and dry, free of paint, dirt, grease, oil, curing or parting agents, and other contaminants, including sealers, that may interfere with the bonding of the adhesive.

Whenever a powdery or porous surface is encountered, a primer compatible with the adhesive to provide a suitable surface for the glue-down installation should be used. Patching compounds must be compatible with the adhesive selected and latex- or polymer-fortified. Manufacturer's recommendations for patch thickness should not be exceeded. Large patched areas must be primed.

Primers - The use of primers on floor surfaces is generally not necessary except for sanded, dusty, porous, or acoustical surfaces. Priming cannot overcome moisture conditions and must not be used for that purpose. When used, primers must be thin, fast drying, and compatible with adhesives, which should be applied only after primer is dry.

Where lightweight or acoustical concrete is used, refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for the proper primer to be used before carpet is installed.

Liquid Adhesive Removers - There are liquid adhesive removers available that will effectively remove cut-back or emulsion adhesive residue from subfloors; however, there is evidence these products may adversely affect the new adhesive or the new floor covering. Any residual of these products left in or on the concrete slab is capable of causing a failure. The use of these removers may void all applicable warranties.

Testing of Concrete Subfloors Prior to Adhesive Installations
The owner or general contractor must submit to the flooring contractor a written report on moisture and surface alkalinity of the slab to determine its suitability as a substrate for the material to be installed.

Moisture Testing
Concrete floors, even with adequate curing time, can present an unacceptable moisture condition by allowing excessive amounts of moisture vapor to pass through to the surface. This can be a problem even on suspended concrete floors. All concrete floors should be tested for moisture emission rate by utilizing an anhydrous calcium chloride moisture test kit available from installation supplies and accessories distributors.

This quantitative method is very precise and must be conducted carefully, with strict attention to the test kit manufacturer's detailed instructions. Moisture emission rate is expressed in lbs/1000 sq ft/24 hours. Because the calcium chloride test for emission rate requires 3 days to conduct, proper installation planning is a must.

As a general guideline, an emission rate of 3 lbs (1.4 kg) or less is acceptable for most carpet. In the range from 3 lbs to 5 lbs (1.4 to 2.3 kg), carpet with porous backings can usually be installed successfully; but the risk of moisture-related problems increases. Since some floor covering products are less tolerant of moisture than others, always consult the individual manufacturer to determine the emission rate for specific products.

Alkalinity Testing
A pH range of 5-9 is satisfactory. A reading above 9 requires corrective measures. Consult the adhesive manufacturer for recommended testing and corrective procedures.

Floor Covering Considerations
With a floor heating system, the entire floor works as a giant radiator. The comfort benefits are immediately obvious under tile, marble, vinyl and wood flooring; however, radiant floor heating works equally well under carpeting. With installations involving carpet and cushion, consideration must be given to the thermal resistance rating (R-value) of the carpet and padding.

Manufacturers of heated floor systems state that less thermally conductive floors, such as those covered with thick carpets, particularly with heavy cushions beneath, may require the use of hotter water. This may preclude the use of water-to-water geothermal heat pumps, some solar systems, and some waste heat recovery systems. Regardless, most homeowners accept some efficiency reduction so that the additional benefits offered by carpet will be enjoyed. A not-so-obvious benefit which should be recognized is that carpet tends to shorten the heating season by providing a "foot warm" floor rather than a "foot cold" floor as with hard surface floorings.

Heated floor system efficiency can be improved by properly selecting carpet and carpet cushion. Most floor systems manufacturers suggest a total maximum R-value for carpet and cushion not to exceed 4.0. With heated floors, lower pile carpet is better than higher pile carpet, and the absence of cushion is preferred.

When cushion is used, it should be no thicker than 3/8". Cushions specifically designed for heated floor use are available and should be considered. Call the Carpet Cushion Council at 203-637-1312 for additional information on cushion selection.

Floor Preparation - Each subfloor shall be inspected to determine the special care required to make it a suitable foundation for carpet. All cracks 1/8 inch (3 mm) wide or protrusions over 1/32 inch (.8 mm) should be filled or leveled.

Concrete - Concrete shall be cured, clean, and dry. If the carpet is to be installed using an adhesive, the concrete shall be free of paint, dirt, grease, oil, curing or parting agents, and other contaminants, including sealers, that may interfere with the bonding of the adhesive. Whenever a powdery or porous surface is encountered, a primer compatible with the adhesive shall be used to provide a suitable surface for the glue-down installation. Patching of cracks and depressions shall be made with an appropriate and compatible latex or polymer fortified patching compound. Do not exceed manufacturer's recommendations for patch thickness. Large patched areas must be primed.

Wood - Wood subfloors shall be structurally sound and have a minimum 18 inch (457 mm) air space underneath with cross ventilation. Subflooring (plywood, hardwood, particleboard, oriented strandboard, or other) must be flooring grade installed to the manufacturer's specifications.

If the carpet is to be installed using an adhesive, joints shall be filled, and the subfloor surface shall be smooth and free of dirt, grease, oil, wax, and other contaminants that may interfere with the bonding of the adhesive. New and/or sanded wood floors shall be coated with a compatible primer to provide an adequate bonding surface.

• Remove all furniture from each room.
• Loosen the carpet from all tackstrip.
• Check that all tackstrip is firmly anchored to floor. The proper gully for the tackstrip is slightly less than the thickness of the carpet, and not exceeding 3/8 inch. Check for cushion (padding) that may have bunched up under the carpet because of inadequate fastening of the cushion. Check for delamination of the secondary backing. Correct all of these conditions before proceeding.
• The seams are to be cut open at all doorways, and the edges at the seams are to be sealed or buttered before re-seaming.
• Using a power stretcher, not a knee-kicker, the carpet is to be stretched 1% to 1½% in each direction in each room.
• Any device that may cause injury, damage carpet or subfloors, or result in an inadequate amount of stretch is not acceptable as a substitute for or an attachment to a power stretcher.
• Restretching one room and not restretching an adjoining room or hallway will likely allow wrinkles to reappear.
• Most floor vents and doorways will require pieces to be seamed into the carpet as the carpet is repositioned with power stretching.
• Edges of carpet that will be placed under a metal strip should be sealed with seam sealer adhesive to deter raveling. Exposed edges fitted to a hard surface flooring should also be sealed.

However, carpet with attached cushion can be installed for residential use by the do-it-yourselfer. The attached cushion makes carpet rolls lightweight and easy to handle. With a few simple, inexpensive tools and double-faced tape, you can complete a beautiful, quality installation in no time. (Professional installers will find that carpet with attached cushion can be installed quickly and easily using a good quality, low VOC, multi-purpose adhesive.) (See adhesive testing program.)

The tools you will need are: A utility knife with extra blades, a pry bar, a putty knife, a metal measuring tape, a hammer and scissors. If you have to make a seam, you’ll need a string chalk line, a straight edge or a cushion-back carpet cutter. Carpet seam sealer adhesive is also required for seams and may be purchased at any carpet supply shop, or at home improvement or do-it-yourself stores that sell carpet.

Measure first. Measure the area before you buy the carpet. Be sure to measure to the center of doorways and to the back of closets.

Installation with Double-Faced Tape
It's a good idea to measure the room again, then pre-cut the carpet 4" to 6" larger than the room size.

NOTE: If you have to make a seam, do it first! (See seaming instructions below)

Prepare the room. If possible, remove all furniture from this room. This will allow you to maneuver the carpet into the room and place it without obstructions. If the room has shoe moulding remove the shoe mold using a pry bar and hammer. (Shoe mold, sometimes referred to as 1/4 round, is the small strip of wood at the intersection of the baseboard and floor. Do not remove baseboards). Take extra care not to break the fragile pieces. Remove the doors by taking the pins out of the hinges. The bottom of the doors may have to be trimmed to allow them to swing freely over the new carpet when installed.

Put double-faced carpet tape around the perimeter of the room and place 12" x 12" crosses on four-foot intervals in the middle of the room. Leave the protective cover on the tape for now.

Position the carpet in the room, centering it. Let the 2" to 3" surplus run up the walls equally. If one wall has no thresholds or projections it is all right to butt the carpet up to the wall and trim the other three sides.

Fold one half of the carpet back over itself, peel the protective cover off the tape and replace the carpet, smoothing out the carpet from the center of the room toward the walls. Repeat for the other half of the room.

On the sides which must be trimmed, use a stiff putty knife to crease the carpet at a 90-degree angle at the joint of the floor and the wall. Trim off the surplus carpet, making sure you have a sharp blade in your utility knife. Be sure to hold the knife almost parallel to the floor and cut in the crease. Walk along this edge to fasten it to the tape.

Installation with Staples
Staples can be used instead of tape. Use heavy duty staples a minimum of 1/2" long. Do not use more staples than are necessary to hold the carpet down securely. On hardwood it may be necessary to tap the staple with a small hammer to drive it in fully. Do this immediately after shooting each staple.

Installation with Multi-Purpose Adhesive
Any good multi-purpose adhesive may be used with attached carpet cushions. After positioning the carpet in the room (see step #3) fold one half of the carpet back over itself, apply the adhesive (following manufacturers instructions) to the floor. After proper "tack time" lay the carpet into the adhesive and then do the other half of the room. Trim the carpet as mentioned in step #5.

Making A Seam
On all seams, you will need to position the second piece of carpet so that it runs in the same direction as the first. This is very important.

When you have determined how the two pieces of carpet will lie in the room, you’ll want to start by getting the straightest edge possible on the piece you will cut first. If using the cushion back carpet cutter you may make your cuts from the face side of the carpet. Follow proper seaming procedures supplied with the Carpet Cutter. If using a utility knife, fold the carpet over and, using a chalk line, mark where you wish to cut on the back of the carpet. Using the straight edge, trim the carpet as straight as you can, cutting through the back of the carpet.

Position both pieces of carpet properly in the room. Make sure that the edge of the trimmed piece is where you want your seam, and that you have enough carpet on either side to reach the walls and doorways. With the uncut piece of carpet on the floor, place the edge of the trimmed piece on top overlapping at least 2". Use the trimmed edge of the cut piece as a guide to cut the other piece.

Fold back both sides and place one strip of 3" double-faced tape, centering the line or two strips of double-faced tape parallel to the line, one on each side of the line. Remove the protective paper from the tape, keeping the carpet folded back.

Apply a bead of seam sealer along the edge of the cushion-backed carpet. A plastic bottle with a long thin neck works best. Apply seam adhesive to only one edge of the carpet.

Complete the seam by butting both sections of the carpet together while the adhesive is still wet, allowing the carpet and cushion to make contact with the tape and seam sealer at the same time. Be sure to keep carpet fiber up and away from the seam sealer. (Professional installers may use hot melt seaming tape on premium attached cushions. The seaming iron will not harm or melt the cushion.)

Finishing Your Installation
Smears of adhesive on the carpet surface can be cleaned with a non-flammable solvent and clean cloth if cleaning is done while adhesive is still wet.

If the edge of the carpet at a doorway must be butted up against carpeting in the next room or hall, follow the same procedure for seaming described above. If there is sufficient carpet, most installers prefer to butt the two pieces in the section directly under the door when the door is closed, making a neater looking installation from both sides. If needed, you may also wish to use metal binding strips found at any hardware store or home center.

There are situations in which the specifier will wish to utilize the stretch-in method. Its selection may be for one of the following reasons:

• Provides enhanced underfoot comfort, acoustical properties (i.e., higher noise reduction coefficients and higher impact noise ratings) when installed with separate cushion
• Increases thermal insulation (R-value)
• Can be used over floors that are unsuitable for glue-down
• Patterned carpet may be more easily matched
• Corrective measures, such as seam repair, may be easier to perform
• Removal costs usually are less than the removal of an adhered installation

Stretch-in installations should be avoided:

• On ramps and inclines
• Where office systems furniture and demountable partitions are utilized
• Where heavy rolling traffic is likely
• Where there is excessive humidity
• When carpet has a unitary backing or other backing systems designed only for glue-down installation

Direct Glue-down Installation

• Suitable for rolling traffic and ramp areas
• Seams are more durable since there is no vertical flexing
• Minimized buckling in buildings that have HVAC systems turned off for extended periods of time
• No restretch situations
• Facilitates access to electrical and telephone lines under floor
• Practically eliminates incidences of seam peaking
• No restrictions to area size
• Intricate border and inlay possibilities
• Usually less expensive

Double Glue-down Installation

• Combines the stability of direct glue-down carpet with the cushioning benefits of a separate cushion, stretch-in installation
• Improves carpet appearance retention, foot comfort and overall performance
• Simplifies carpet bordering and inlaying
• Suitable for wheeled traffic areas
• No restrictions to size of area

Installation: A quality installation is critical to the performance of your carpet and will protect your indoor air quality. When having your carpet installed, the Carpet and Rug Institute advises obtaining the services of an installation contractor who adheres to the Standard for Installation of Commercial Carpet, CRI 104, for all aspects of the installation.

Before Installation: Have a clear understanding of the services the retailer will provide and be aware of those that you must handle. For example, there may be an additional charge to move your furniture. Discuss with the retailer who will remove the existing carpet and cushion and be responsible for disposal. Placement of seams is important. Ask that seams be placed in less visible areas. Request that the installer follow the instructions from the carpet manufacturer and/or those set forth in the Standard for Installation of Residential Carpet, CRI 105, accepted by the industry. Don’t expect seams to be invisible.

Before the installers arrive, complete other remodeling projects intended in the room, such as painting and wallpapering. Vacuum the old carpet to avoid the possibility of airborne dust and dirt. After the carpet and cushion are removed, vacuum the sub-floor.

When Carpet is Delivered: Check its texture, color, and style; make sure there are no visible defects before installation. Be sure the installer will adhere to the Standard for Installation of Residential Carpet, CRI 105. Among other things, it requires for proper installation that carpet must be power-stretched to minimize wrinkling and rippling. Seam edges must be sealed with appropriate adhesive to prevent delamination and edge ravel. Buying your carpet from an authorized "Seal of Approval" retailer will ensure a professional installation.

During Installation: New, thicker carpet may prevent doors from swinging clear and free. The installer will remove the doors and re-hang them if possible. If the doors do not clear, arrange to have them trimmed. It is your responsibility to provide an adequate supply of fresh air during installation. Open windows and doors, use an exhaust fan, or operate the fan of your heating or air conditioning system.

After Installation: Vacuum your carpet to remove loose fibers. You may notice a slight new carpet smell, which should dissipate quickly. Ventilate the area for 48 to 72 hours. If you are unusually sensitive to odors or allergy-prone, you may want to avoid the installation area during this period. If you have any questions about this, contact your retailer.

In the months following installation, you may notice these characteristics:
SHEDDING—the shedding of loose fibers is normal and should subside with regular vacuuming.
SPROUTING—if a single tuft extends beyond the carpet’s surface, simply clip it off. Do not pull it out.
PILE REVERSAL OR SHADING—a color change that seems to occur in various parts of the carpet, caused by light being reflected in different ways, as pile fibers are bend in different directions. This is not a defect but a characteristic of plush carpet.
WRINKLING—if ripples persist, call your retailer. It may be necessary to professionally re-stretch the carpet.

Common sense recommendations for installing new carpet:
Install a carpet with CRI's Indoor air Quality Carpet Testing Program label, indicating that the product type has been tested and meets the low TVOC emissions criteria.

When the carpet is to be glued down (not usually in residential applications), ask the installer to use an adhesive displaying the CRI's Indoor Air Quality Adhesive Testing Program label, indicating that it has been tested and meets the low TVOC emissions criteria.
Vacuum the old carpet prior to removal and the floor after the old carpet and cushion has been removed to minimize airborne dust and other particulates.

Ventilate with fresh air (open windows, operate a fan, and/or run the fan of the heat/air system continuously) during the removal of the old carpet and the installation of the new carpet, and for 48 to 72 hours after installation.

Use a professional installer and confirm that the minimum industry-accepted installation standards of CRI 104 and/or CRI 105 are followed.

Those who consider themselves unusually sensitive or prone to allergic reactions may wish to leave the premises while the old carpet is being removed and the new carpet installed, and for 48 to 72 hours afterward.

In general, follow the same common sense ventilation precautions used when painting, wallpapering, or renovating any area of the home.

Spot Cleaning
Address spills as soon as possible. The sooner spills are addressed, the easier they are to clean.
Dry spills: Vacuum to lift and remove residue.
Liquid spills: Blot with absorbent cloth or plain, white paper towel.
Special spot cleaning kit is available from a professional service; however, most spills can be removed with a solution of ¼ teaspoon of clear (non-bleach, non-lanolin) liquid dishwashing detergent with 1 cup of warm water. Spray solution on spot; allow to remain on spot 8 to 10 minutes to lift the spill; clean the spot by blotting. Thoroughly rinse with warm water, and blot until absorbent towel shows no moisture transfer.

Extraction Cleaning for All Areas
Schedule: (1) Just prior to school year and (2) During school’s winter holiday
If soil accumulation becomes seriously visible between the two scheduled cleanings, extraction clean the soiled area.
Procedure: Perform in an unoccupied building; ventilate (run HVAC system) during and for 48 hours afterwards.
If using wet method, extract moisture thoroughly. If possible dry within 12 hours, but certainly by 24 hours.

Maintenance Plan
Plan a maintenance program before installation so such factors as budget, personnel and areas of special consideration can be taken into account. Maintenance personnel are advised to:

1. Obtain detailed floor plan of facility.
2. Identify areas of heavy soiling:
   
   
• Track-off Regions: Areas where carpet collects tracked-in soil from the outdoors or from hard-surfaced floors. Track off regions average 90 square feet (6 x 15) at building entrances, 10 square feet (2 x 5) at internal doorways, and 40 square feet (5 x 8) in corridors six feet wide.
• Congested Channels: A concentrated channel of foot traffic, such as a doorway, stairwell or drinking fountain area. A congested channel averages three feet around a doorway to 10 feet around elevators.
• Traffic Lanes: Areas with the largest amount of foot traffic.

A complete and effective program should include three maintenance categories: preventative, daily and periodic.

1. Preventative maintenance
   
   Preemptive measures can be taken to reduce the effects of soil:
   
   
   • Entry Mats: Placed in entryways and elevators, they will collect dirt before it reaches the carpeted area. Assure that the mats cover the distance of several footsteps.
   • Color Selection: Select color appropriate to traffic areas and local soil conditions. Medium colors, tweeds and patterned carpets hide soil, while lighter colors mask fading.
     
     
2. Daily maintenance
   
   
   • Vacuuming: Vacuuming is the most important and most cost-effective element of an efficient maintenance program. Vacuuming can remove more than 80 percent of dry soil on a daily basis. Vacuuming should be scheduled according to the amount of potential soil buildup of a particular area.
     
     The general recommendations for vacuuming frequency are as follows:
     
     
     • Heavy traffic areas: Daily
     • Medium traffic areas: Twice weekly
     • Light traffic areas: Once or twice weekly
       
       
   • Vacuuming Equipment: Two types of vacuum cleaning equipment are available for daily maintenance of commercial installations. They are:
     
     
     1. Heavy-duty, wide track machine for wide, open areas. Should have powerful suction and an enclosed, high-efficiency particulate filtration bag and be equipped with adjustable cylindrical brushes to whip embedded soil to the surface.
     2. An industrial version of the domestic upright for tighter areas. Should have the same features and should have hose and wand attachments for hard-to-reach areas. A backpack vacuum with a high airflow and high-efficiency filtration provides increased productivity.
        • Periodic pile brushing with a pile lifter vacuum pre-conditions carpet and removes dry, deeply embedded soil from high traffic areas. This can be especially helpful prior to carpet cleaning.
          
          
3. Extraction Cleaning
   
   Periodically scheduled extraction cleaning will remove accumulated soil not removed by regular vacuuming and spot removal. CRI suggests a monthly or as needed cleaning of transition areas, track-off regions and congested channels. Cleaning methods include:

• Absorbent Compound (Dry Extraction)
• Absorbent Pad or Bonnet
• Dry Foam
• Hot Water Extraction (Steam Cleaning)
• Rotary Shampoo Cleaning
  Use method recommended by the carpet manufacturer.

Lightweight portable extractors are available for more efficient removal of spills. These portable extractors assist in thoroughly removing spills, rinsing cleaning solutions, and extracting wet spills. It is important to adhere to manufacturer's spot removal instructions to prevent voiding existing warranties. Failure to follow these instructions could result in damaged carpet fibers.

Have a professional deep clean your rug often. Several cleaning methods will work, but to prevent rapid resoiling, it is important to completely remove any cleaning agents.

Your retailer can refer you to a cleaning specialist where you rug can be taken in your area

Filtration soil areas may appear around baseboards, under doors, along the edges of stairs and possibly away from walls where plywood subflooring materials have been joined. Generally, the concentrated air flow will be from an upper level to a lower level of the home.
As indicated, filtration soiling can occur under closed interior doors where a central heating, ventilation, and air condition (HVAC) system is utilized. When possible, open Interior doors to reduce filtration soiling that may develop under closed doors while the HVAC system is in operation.

Filtration soil may be fireplace or automobile emissions, residue from furniture polishes, fine sand or clay particles, cooking oils, or a host of other soils or a combination of soils. Oily airborne contaminants trapped by carpet fibers will serve to attract more dry soil.

It is difficult to identify effective methods to reduce or prevent filtration soiling. Preventing airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing cracks in the subfloor, as well as under baseboards and edges of stairs, may reduce filtration soiling problems. Keeping air inside the home as clean as possible can be accomplished by reducing indoor air pollutants, such as cooking emissions, fireplace smoke, burning candles, cigarette smoke, and emissions from cleaning chemicals; and by the installation and regular replacement of high efficiency HVAC air filters.

While no one cleaning technique may be successful in all filtration soiling situations, recent innovations in soil- and stain-resist treatments applied to carpet have reduced the effort previously needed to remove the filtration soil. However, the complete removal of contaminants from the soiled areas can be complicated, depending on the type of contaminant materials present. To achieve the best results, the services of a cleaning professional should be considered.